Yohji Yamamoto’s takeover of Hôtel de Ville

For his Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear showcase, Yohji Yamamoto transformed the historic Hôtel de Ville in Paris into a stage for his signature vision. The grand municipal building, known for its opulent interiors and deep ties to French history, provided a striking contrast to Yamamoto’s avant-garde approach. The choice of venue underscored the designer’s ability to merge tradition with rebellion, setting the tone for a collection that challenged conventional fashion norms.

As guests arrived, they were met with the imposing architecture of the Hôtel de Ville, its gilded chandeliers and intricate woodwork offering an unexpected backdrop for Yamamoto’s dark, deconstructed silhouettes. The juxtaposition of the venue’s regal atmosphere with the designer’s raw, asymmetrical designs created a visual dialogue between past and present, reinforcing his reputation as a master of contrast.

Yamamoto’s decision to stage his show in such a historically significant location was more than just a logistical choice—it was a statement. The Hôtel de Ville, a symbol of Parisian heritage, became a canvas for his exploration of imperfection and transience. The setting amplified the impact of his designs, making each piece feel like a deliberate act of defiance against the rigid structures of traditional fashion.

“Fashion should be a form of resistance,” Yamamoto once said, and his takeover of the Hôtel de Ville embodied this philosophy. By placing his unconventional designs within a space steeped in history, he challenged the audience to reconsider the boundaries between fashion, art, and architecture.

The atmosphere inside the venue was intimate yet theatrical. Models moved through the grand halls with a quiet intensity, their garments flowing against the ornate surroundings. The interplay between the structured environment and the fluidity of Yamamoto’s designs heightened the drama of the presentation, ensuring that this showcase would be remembered as one of the most striking moments of Paris Fashion Week.

Deconstruction in the Spring/Summer 2025 collection

Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection expanded on the theme of deconstruction that he introduced in his menswear line earlier this year. This season, he pushed the concept even further, dismantling traditional tailoring and reconstructing it into something entirely new. The collection featured asymmetrical cuts, raw edges, and layered fabrics that appeared to be in a constant state of transformation. Each piece seemed to challenge the very notion of completion, embracing imperfection as an essential element of beauty.

Black remained the dominant colour, a signature of Yamamoto’s aesthetic, but this time it was punctuated by unexpected flashes of deep indigo and muted greys. The interplay of textures—distressed cotton, sheer organza, and structured wool—created a sense of movement, as if the garments were evolving with each step the models took. Oversized jackets with exaggerated lapels and slashed hems gave the impression of garments caught mid-construction, while draped dresses appeared to unravel in real time, revealing glimpses of the body beneath.

One of the most striking elements of the collection was the way Yamamoto manipulated fabric to create a sense of controlled chaos. Some garments featured exposed seams and frayed edges, while others incorporated unexpected cut-outs that disrupted traditional silhouettes. The designer’s signature play with volume was also evident, with billowing skirts and sculptural coats that seemed to defy gravity. The result was a collection that felt both raw and refined, a testament to Yamamoto’s mastery of deconstruction.

Accessories played a crucial role in reinforcing the collection’s theme. Wide-brimmed hats, reminiscent of traditional Japanese headwear, were reimagined with jagged edges and asymmetrical brims. Footwear ranged from deconstructed leather boots to delicate, lace-up sandals that wrapped around the ankle like unfinished sketches. Even the styling of the models reflected the collection’s ethos—hair was left slightly undone, and makeup was minimal, allowing the garments to take centre stage.

By embracing deconstruction in such a bold and uncompromising way, Yamamoto once again proved why he remains one of the most influential designers in contemporary fashion. His Spring/Summer 2025 collection was not just about clothing—it was about challenging perceptions, questioning norms, and finding beauty in the unfinished.

Avant-garde aesthetics at Paris Fashion Week

Yamamoto’s presence at Paris Fashion Week has long been synonymous with avant-garde fashion, and his Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear showcase was no exception. His ability to challenge conventional beauty and redefine femininity was on full display, with garments that blurred the lines between structure and fluidity, tradition and rebellion. The collection was a masterclass in pushing boundaries, proving once again that Yamamoto is not just a designer, but a storyteller who weaves emotion into every stitch.

Silhouettes were deliberately unconventional, with exaggerated proportions and asymmetrical draping that created a sense of movement and unpredictability. Long, flowing coats trailed behind models like shadows, while sharply tailored jackets were offset by unexpected slashes and raw edges. The contrast between rigid structure and organic fluidity was a recurring theme, reinforcing Yamamoto’s philosophy that fashion should exist in a state of constant evolution.

Texture played a crucial role in the collection’s avant-garde aesthetic. Fabrics ranged from sheer, gauzy layers that hinted at fragility to heavy, structured materials that exuded strength. Some garments appeared to be in the process of unraveling, with loose threads and unfinished hems adding to the sense of imperfection. Others featured intricate pleating and folding techniques that created sculptural shapes, transforming the body into a living work of art.

Accessories and styling choices further emphasised the collection’s unconventional nature. Wide-brimmed hats, tilted at unexpected angles, obscured the models’ faces, adding an air of mystery. Footwear was equally striking, with asymmetrical boots and lace-up sandals that wrapped around the leg in unexpected ways. Even the models’ movements were carefully considered—slow, deliberate, and almost meditative, as if each step was part of a larger narrative.

The show’s soundtrack, a haunting blend of minimalist piano and distorted electronic beats, heightened the atmosphere, reinforcing the collection’s themes of deconstruction and transformation. The lighting, too, played a role in shaping the experience, casting elongated shadows that emphasised the dramatic silhouettes of the garments.

Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2025 showcase was more than just a fashion show—it was a statement on the nature of beauty, imperfection, and the ever-evolving relationship between clothing and the body. In a world where trends come and go, his commitment to artistic integrity and fearless experimentation remains unwavering, ensuring that his presence at Paris Fashion Week continues to be one of the most anticipated moments of the season.

Yohji Yamamoto’s takeover of Hôtel de Ville

Yohji Yamamoto made a bold statement at Paris Fashion Week by staging his Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear showcase at the historic Hôtel de Ville. The grand setting, typically reserved for official city functions, provided a striking contrast to Yamamoto’s signature avant-garde aesthetic, reinforcing his reputation as a designer who thrives on defying convention.

The venue’s opulent interiors, with their gilded chandeliers and intricate mouldings, served as an unexpected yet fitting backdrop for Yamamoto’s darkly poetic vision. The juxtaposition of heritage and rebellion was palpable, as models moved through the grand halls in sculptural silhouettes that blurred the lines between fashion and art.

By choosing Hôtel de Ville, Yamamoto underscored his deep connection to Paris, a city that has long embraced his unconventional approach to design. The setting amplified the drama of his collection, elevating each piece beyond mere clothing and into the realm of performance. This wasn’t just a runway show—it was a statement of intent, a reminder that Yamamoto remains one of the most fearless voices in contemporary fashion.

Deconstruction and avant-garde aesthetics in SS25

Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection expanded on the theme of deconstruction first introduced in his menswear line earlier this year. This season, he pushed the boundaries even further, dismantling traditional tailoring and reconstructing it into something entirely new. Jackets were slashed and reassembled with raw edges, while asymmetrical draping created a sense of movement and fluidity. The collection was a masterclass in controlled chaos—each piece appearing undone yet meticulously crafted.

Black, as always, dominated the palette, but this time, Yamamoto introduced subtle variations in texture and layering to create depth. Sheer fabrics were juxtaposed with structured wool, while distressed lace peeked out from beneath sharply cut blazers. The interplay of hard and soft, structured and fluid, gave the collection a haunting beauty—one that felt both rebellious and deeply romantic.

Silhouettes were exaggerated, with oversized coats enveloping the body and voluminous skirts trailing behind models as they walked. Yet, despite the dramatic proportions, there was an undeniable sense of ease. Yamamoto’s ability to balance avant-garde experimentation with wearability was on full display, proving once again why he remains a master of his craft.

Accessories played a crucial role in reinforcing the collection’s deconstructed aesthetic. Wide-brimmed hats, reminiscent of traditional Japanese headwear, were tilted at unexpected angles, while leather gloves extended past the elbow, adding an air of mystery. Footwear was equally unconventional—chunky, sculptural boots grounded the looks, lending them a sense of strength and defiance.

Yamamoto’s SS25 collection was not just about clothing; it was a meditation on imperfection, a celebration of the beauty found in disorder. In a fashion landscape increasingly driven by trends and commercial appeal, his unwavering commitment to artistic integrity stood out as a powerful statement. This was deconstruction at its finest—raw, poetic, and undeniably Yohji.